Terrarium Ornaments

Terrarium Ornament
My mediocre photography skills are always put to the test when there’s glass involved. I hope you can see through the glare to tell that this ornament may just be my best idea ever.

Terrariums were all over the crafty blog world a couple of years ago, but they didn’t do much for me. :shrug: You can’t be into everything, I suppose. Here’s a great post about Maggie Mason’s succulent terrariums to get you familiar with the concept.

A big challenge for me with this tree was how to incorporate all the different materials you’d find in the woods, without just gluing everything on a styrofoam ball. I did some of that, but for a tree to be interesting, you need either everything the same, or loads of contrast. So I kept thinking, “How can I use dirt? How can I use rocks? In a way that would actually be pretty.?”

Then I saw these giant glass ornaments at Michaels. There’s probably 5″ wide which gives you an opening that’s about 1 inch, which is just big enough to shove things through.

Terrarium Ornament Step 1
Shove a bunch of dirt through the hole until it’s about 1/4 full. I used a potting soil I had in my shed.

Now here we need to address the difference between doing this in an ornament and doing this in a big glass jar that will never move from your counter. If you tried to put these away for the year, all the dirt would slide to the back and you’d be left with a big stirred up mess.

Terrarium Ornament Step 2
I took some white glue and watered it way down so it’d be easy to squirt and easy for the dirt to absorb it. Then squirt away, making sure to get the very edges, but taking care to avoid the glass. It will dry clear, but you’d still see a smudge on the glass.

Terrarium Ornament Step 3
Then I added a couple of different types of moss, and squirted glue all over the top of that too.

Terrarium Ornament Step 4
Then you just put in some miscellaneous pretty forest bits. It can be a little bit tricky to find something small enough to fit through the hole, so look for things that can easily be cut apart. I went to the section of the craft store that carried floral picks for wreaths. There was some good stuff to choose from, and on a much smaller scale that the stuff in the rest of the floral department. I just tossed in some clippings off a faux pine branch, a couple of fake berries, and because I can never resist the glitter (and I’m hardly going for verisimilitude here) a glittery plastic branch of something or other.

These ornaments will be heavier than average, so make sure that you pick a sturdy place to put them. I also opted for wire ornament hooks instead of my usual fishing line. The wire makes it easier to get a really secure set up.

Feathered Ornaments

This years new tree has taken on about five different permutations in my head. I originally had it in my head as an “Exotic” tree, and at the time I was thinking of feathers and animal print, paying homage to South Africa where Bear spent a couple of years and I’ve always had a deep affinity for. But the more I thought about it, the more I was afraid of it getting tacky. You know that lady with the big hair and four different animal prints in her outfit? I didn’t want a Christmas tree that looked like that lady.

So then I thought about adding ornaments that were influenced by places in the world that were exotic to me – India, Morocco, Africa, China – but as I started to plan it I kept coming up with ideas that were a whole lot closer to home.

So I’ve changed my focus and instead of an Exotic tree, I’m making a Woodland tree. A tree that looks like the animals in the forest got together and decorated something for their own party. Wood, moss, leaves, berries, birds and their nests, pinecones, little forest creatures, I’m loving how it’s turning out.

And it all started here:

Feather Ornaments

I have a garage full of craft supplies from failed business endeavors, and one of those boxes is full of feathers. I bought pounds and pounds of feathers years ago for these feather topiaries I was making. I still think it was a wonderful idea, but this was pre-etsy and every time I tried to sell them people just gave me this look and asked, “but what are they for?”

To be pretty! Is it that complicated? Ahem. I think I have some lingering bitterness to work through.

Anyhoo, I long ago donated all the feathers that were just plain old dyed chicken feathers, but the really good ones I just couldn’t bear to let go of. This is what I was always coming back to when I started thinking about an animal print tree.

Feathers sewn together

When you buy good feathers, this is how they usually come. Sewn together in a long row. Even the ones I’ve bought at Michaels come this way. This will save you a whole lot of trouble.

Wooden Discs

For the ornaments, I got these 1 1/2″ wooden discs and stained them with some wood stain I had lying around. These will just cover up the messy ends.

Cover the back with hot glue.

Back of Ornament

I cut off about 5″ from the big row of feathers, leaving the sewing in tact. You can cut smaller segments off the 5″ piece, or, if you’re fast, you can just stretch the whole piece around to touch itself, and stick those ends in the glue. It’s important to really stretch those feathers or else you will use up a whole lot more feathers than you need to. Not only will this cost a fortune, but it won’t look great either.

When that glue cools, I just stuck it in the branches of the tree.

The feather garland is even easier. I cut small segments off the big row of feathers, maybe 1/2″ wide, maybe a little bit bigger, and then glued the segments together.

Gluing Feather Garland

I spread hot glue all over the ends of the feathers, and then I’d take the next feather segment and overlap it with the last. It couldn’t be simpler. Just watch out for hot glue peeking through the feathers. It’s been years since I had a good hot glue gun burn, but boy howdy is that streak over.

The cats are going a little bit crazy over this new tree. I think by the holiday I might be willing to give one of them away.

Silver Cuff

Silver Cuff worn

You guys know of my deep and abiding love for the cuff bracelet. The perfect accessory for this girl’s gorilla arms. So earlier this year I was going through my craft supplies and came upon a big jar of bugle beads leftover from the beaded Christmas tree skirt, and thought they might make an interesting bracelet.

I’m also talked before about how much I love bead weaving, but how much I dislike so many of the projects I see done with it, so I always come back to the cuff bracelet. It’s the perfect collaboration of medium and object to me. The simplicity of the cuff really lets the elegance of a weave shine, and the weave makes this great flexible textile that is perfect for a cuff. It’s the new chocolate and peanut butter – two great things that go great together.

Silver cuff

I’ve directed you guys to this site before, and I think their bead weaving tutorials can’t be beat. Certainly better than anything I could try to describe.

Loop end

After using peyote stitch to bead the cuff, I took the thread back up through two beads and out to make the loop. Bugle beads won’t bend, so you have to use seed beads. Thread enough beads to make a loop big enough for the buttons you plan on using, then go back through the beads on the last row of the cuff. Secure your loop by going through the whole thing a few more times with your thread, then repeat the whole process to make your second loop.

Button end

Then just sew on your buttons. The ones with a shank are the ones that you want.

I used these beads because I had them in my stash, but once I was finished I was struck by the serendipity. It looks just like an homage to my childhood hero… Wonder Woman!

Wonder Woman Bracelet

Watch as she deflects mommy driveby comments pinging off into the atmosphere! Marvel as she uses her unshowered funk to ward off evildoers! Be surprised when she sheds her secret identity as mild mannered mother into somebody glamorous enough to wear this bracelet!

The easiest window treatment ever

A couple years ago already, I found this incredible maxi skirt at a vintage clothing store near me. I just fell in love with the fabric, but I had the same dilemma I always have at vintage stores – nothing fits my 21st century frame. I bought the skirt anyway because there was so much fabric I knew I had to be able to do something with it.

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I figured it would make a great cover for a cornice in my studio. Cornices are a favorite window treatment of mine since they’re a way of taking something as soft and ethereal as curtains and adding a clean hard edge to it. Plus, they’re ridiculously simple to make. You just need a piece of wood in the shape of your cornice.

For this simple straight forward one, I wanted it to be eight inches tall, so I got a 2 x 8 and had a piece cut to how wide I wanted it to hang across my window. Then I had two pieces cut to how deep I wanted the cornice, minus two inches so the final measurement would include the width of both pieces of wood.

I lined up the two pieces perpendicularly and put three screws through the top piece and into the side piece.
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Then to make it super sturdy, I used a bracket on the inside of the cornice.
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Pull out your trusty staple gun and cover the whole thing with quilters batting. I used a couple of layers to make it look nicely upholstered instead of just a wrapped up piece of wood.
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Since I was using a salvaged fabric, I had to sew some strips together to get it wide enough for the whole board, but after I did that I just stretched it across the front and stapled the fabric to the back. Don’t be shy with your staples, and try to keep those corners neat.
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I didn’t have enough of the skirt fabric to make a lining for the cornice, so I used some random cheap lining fabric I had in my stash. As neatly as I could I folded the edges under and stapled the lining down.
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To hang this up, just get some L brackets, screw one end into each of the side pieces, and the other end into your wall. Easy Peasy.

You might also want to remember to account for any other window treatments you’ll be using when you determine your width. The last time I made a cornice I forgot and I had to jam a curtain rod up in there in a very unattractive manner. This time I didn’t worry about it because I knew I didn’t have the fabric to go any wider, so I figured I’ll just staple some sheers to the inside.

Finished cornice

The "Fits Any Body Especially Yours" Apron

Apron side 1

Sewing is crazy hard for the full figured woman. Most patterns get sized as if a larger woman was larger in the exact same way that smaller women are smaller. So there’s not much accounting for curves, or shape, let alone differences in curve or shape. The poor pattern designers can only do so much to account for how different we’re all shaped, but if you’re someone like me, who is a fuller figured woman in exactly one part of my body, then it’s a nightmare to try to follow sewing patterns. If a pattern fits my ridiculously large rack, then it is a sack on the rest of me. If it fits me in the butt, it binds my poor boobs until they look in danger of popping.

A couple of months ago I spent a day with my friend Jan who designs sewing patterns and is most known for her aprons. I love aprons in theory, but every one I’ve made has just bugged me. They pull at my neck, they ride up and don’t sit right on my waist, I end up tugging on them so much I’ve ripped more than one. But I really do love the look and functionality of them, so I always go back and make another one, hoping that will be the one that fits comfortably enough to wear all day as I flit about the house cooking and cleaning and humming to myself, probably while I wear pearls and high heels. In my imagination anyway. These days it would be more likely to be a snot guard. But still. Totally worth it.

After a day with Jan I left so inspired. She is just such a generous friend, and I left her house with every pattern she’s ever designed and enough fabric to double my stash. She motivated me to not only give aprons another try (take a look at this one! That’s next on my “to make” list.) but to really unleash my creativity and try some designing of my own.

I wanted to come up with the worlds most basic apron. Something that someone who had never sat down at a sewing machine could make, but something that was totally customizable so it could fit, without a whole lot of math or measurements, the curviest of the curvies and the slenderest of the slenders. I was actually thinking of Enrichment Nights at church, where we often do a craft project but it has to be something that any age or skill level would be interested in. I think this fits the bill.

Plus it’s reversible, so you have even more opportunities to use all those fabulous coordinating fabrics out there.

You’ll need:
2 fabrics for the skirt – 1/2 yd each for most, otherwise just buy what fabric you’ll need to wrap around your waist
2 fabrics for the bodice – a fat quarter will be enough for most, otherwise, just buy what you need to cover your torso
Contrasting fabric – 1/2 yard
2 cute buttons

Apron tutorial step 1
1. Cut your bodice fabrics to the size that will cover you. I cut mine to be 16″ x 14″, and then I cut a piece of the contrasting fabric to 14″ x 3″ and sewed those together. I wanted another way to get more fabric options in there, but I also wanted to create a visual waistline since a one piece garment over large breasts just makes the whole of you look big.

Apron tutorial step 2
2. Cut your skirt fabrics to the size that will fit you. For mine I just took the half yard and cut off the selvages. It worked perfectly for my height and waist size.

Apron tutorial step 3
3. Fold your skirt fabric in half along the waistline and pinch to mark the center. Do the same for your bodice fabric. Unfold and match the center marks of both pieces, right sides together, and sew. Do the same thing for the second skirt and bodice pieces.

Apron tutorial step 4
4. Out of your contrast fabric cut two ties for the waist and one for the neck. For the waist ties I cut selvage to selvage, 4 1/2″ wide. I did the same thing for the neck tie, 5 inches wide. If you’re on the smaller end of the scale, your neck tie will end up being way shorter, but this was easy to cut and gives you plenty of room to get the fit right.

For each of these pieces, fold right sides together and sew into a tube. Turn the tube right side out. Iron each tube flat with the seam in the middle of one side. Set the neck piece aside for now. On one side of the waist pieces, turn the ends inside about a 1/2″ and iron down. Sew a top-stitch down each side of each waist tie.

Apron tutorial step 5
5. Line up the unfinished edge of a waist tie with the edge of one of the skirt pieces and sew in place. Repeat for the other side, making sure that the waist ties line up with each other.

Apron tutorial step 6
6. Now you can give your apron a quick try on and see if everything lines up just where you want it. You’ll need about 1/2″ on each side to sew the two apron pieces together, so make sure you account for that in your fitting. I ended up cutting my bodice piece way down and making the waistband smaller (which is the measurement I listed). Make sure you make any changes to both sides of the apron.

Pin both apron pieces together and sew nearly all the way around, leaving a couple inches open for turning. Cut a snip into the seam allowance at the corners where the bodice meets the skirt. It will look way nicer when turned.

Turn the apron right side out and give it a really thorough pressing. Then follow with a top-stitch all the way around as close to the edge as you can steer.

Apron tutorial step 7
7. Now lets address the neck tie. Give yourself another fitting and decide exactly how long you need your neck piece to be. It should extend onto the apron enough to fit the button you’re going to use, and still be long enough to not pull on your neck. Cut it to size and finish just like we did the waist ties. Iron the ends under, sew two lines of top-stitching, then sew your buttons in place.

Mark and sew your buttonholes on the top of the apron. Then button onto the apron, reversing when you feel like it.

Apron side 2
I’m trying my best Smize.

I’m so pleased with this. It’s so easy I made it in a nap time, and so comfortable I still haven’t taken it off. I think I may just make it through cooking for Thanksgiving this year without being covered in flour and gravy splatter, and still not have a sore neck and ripped hanks of fabric at the end of it.

New Kitchen Washcloths

Stack of Washcloths

Bear had a great Aunt who made us a couple of handmade washcloths as a wedding present, and I have to confess, back then I could not understand why you’d go to that much trouble for a washcloth when paper towels are so cheap. Ten years later, I always smile to myself when I pull that washcloth out to wash the dishes with. Oh younger me, how silly you were to not appreciate the indestructible glories of a handknit.

Those first washcloths have finally given up the ghost, so I thought it was time for a whole new batch of them. They are hands down the very very best things to use to wash dishes or wipe counters. The yarn makes all these lovely ridges that are great scrubbers, they are tougher than any sponge out there, they’ll never scratch anything delicate, and they just get tossed in the wash so no nasty little germ factories like what normally sits by the sink, and no dead trees. For relatively little effort you get a healthier family, healthier home, and healthier planet. Win, win, win.

Basketweave washcloth
I’ve made tons and tons of the fantastic washcloths from the gals at Mason-Dixon and they are really great, but I absolutely detest weaving in ends, and that one requires a lot of it. But it has that great texture, and I really wanted to keep that.

I also really prefer the process of crochet to the process of knitting. It’s easier on my hands, it goes faster, it’s more mindless for me, but crochet creates this big bulky fabric, and knitting can create this lovely smooth fabric, so I usually go for the knitting. This was a perfect project for crochet – bulky only works in it’s favor – and I could seriously crank out the yardage in a hurry that way. I found this basketweave stitch and knew it was perfection.

I used Lily Sugar ‘n Cream cotton. Out of 3 balls I got two washcloths. Here’s my quick pattern:

Chain 29

DC in third chain from hook and 26 times more to complete the row. Ch 2, turn.

Now starts the Basketweave pattern:

Row 1: Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC) (see below) 3 times (the 2 chains from the last row make your first stitch) [Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC) (see below) 4 times, BPDC 4 times]* repeat * twice more, Ch 2, turn.

OK, all that sounds terribly confusing, but really you’re just making seven blocks of four stitches, alternating the Front Post and Back Post stitches.

Row 2: FPDC 3 times, [BPDC 4 times, FPDC 4 times]* repeat * twice more, Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Repeat row 2. I think you’ll see here that you just FP the FP’s and BP’s the BP’s until it’s time to make a new square.

Those three rows create the square. To make the square that alternates it, you just have to flip the FP’s and BP’s. So the next square would go like this:

Row 1: FPDC 3 times, [BPDC 4 times, FPDC 4 times]* repeat * twice more, Ch 2, turn.

Row 2: BPDC 3 times, [FPDC 4 times, BPDC 4 times]* repeat * twice more, Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: FPDC 3 times, [BPDC 4 times, FPDC 4 times]* repeat * twice more, Ch 2, turn.

Then you’d have your second row of squares, so you’d go back to that first way for the third set of squares.

I hope that makes sense. If it doesn’t just reading through it, then try it as you crochet. It’s really simple, I think it will just pop out at you as you work it.

OK, now there’s those special stitches:
These work just like a double crochet stitch, but instead of going through the loop, you go around the post made by the previous row. Which direction you go around the post, makes the stitch either push forward, or pull backwards.

Back Post Double Crochet:
Yarn over, and insert the hook from the back

Back Post Double Crochet Step 1

Go around the post and push the needle back towards the back. Yarn over and pull it all through.

Back Post Double Crochet Step 2

Then treat it like a regular double crochet. Yarn over, pull through two loops. Yarn over again, pull through two loops, leaving one loop on the hook.

Front Post Double Crochet:
This works exactly the same way, except you come at the post from the front, around the post from the back, and then through to the front.
Front Post Double Crochet

If you know how to crochet, you can totally do this. Just read as you’re working instead of trying to make sense of it all. It really doesn’t make sense unless you’ve got the crochet right in front of you.

I meant to do this project in the Spring. It just seems like a Spring kind of project, new washcloths, perfect to have ready for all that Spring Cleaning, but when Spring was here I was busy working on Halloween projects. I got all turned around trying to work ahead for magazines, and I really didn’t enjoy that. I’ve never realized before how much the season affects what I’m inspired to do.

This timing worked out OK too though, because after all that Halloween madness, I needed a seriously mellow palate cleanser, and this was just right to work on during this never ending sickness.

Stuffed Spiderweb Ornament

Stuffed Spiderweb Ornament
This ornament is really just a variation of one I’ve done before. Whenever I sit down to start designing ornaments, I always start by thinking of different mediums I could use to create a theme, and embroidery is just so darn easy.

It’s nice to get this one finished and on the tree. I’ve been carting around little pieces of embroidery all month. It seems like a spiderweb is so dainty the stitching would go crazy fast, but I made them big enough that each one took me hours. I think it’s worth it though, it really fits my spooky theme, and brings my colors in together.

Spiderweb Ornament Step 1
Embroider a spiderweb. I’ll post a pattern if anyone really wants one, but I thought spiderwebs were pretty doable by just about everyone. I used black cotton perle floss and some leftover crepe backed satin I had lying around. I do a lot of embroidery on that fabric, partly because I’ve got a ton of it, but also because I like that contrast between the homespun embroidery and a fancier fabric.

Spiderweb Ornament Step 2
I couldn’t figure out how to make a spider in embroidery. I asked all my super smart embroidery friends if they knew of some magical 3-D stitch, and while they were all consulting their samplers and stitch books, the stupidly simple thought occurred to me that I could just use a bead. I secured the bead with a couple tight stitches, and then used three long stitches to make the legs.

Spiderweb Ornament Step 3
Pin it to your backing fabric, right sides together, with a hanging loop sandwiched between the two layers. Then just sew around the stitching. You could make this neater if you felt like it, but I was digging the wonkiness. Nature isn’t perfect after all.

Spiderweb Ornament Step 4
Stuff and close. If you’re going for heirlooms, use a whip-stitch or something similar. Me? I always close my ornaments with a little fabric glue. Saves me hours and people aren’t going to notice. Especially after the next step.

Spiderweb Ornament Step 5
Run a thin strip of fabric glue around the seam and adhere a little black satin cord, hiding the edges in the hanging loop. I almost left this step off, but it just looks so nice and finished I had to do it.

Mummy Ball

We’re getting down to the end here, and we’re starting to reach all those ornaments that are so easy they feel like cheating.

Mummy Ball

I bought that great textured polka dot fabric to replace the binding on my tree skirt, and I had a whole bunch of bias cut binding left over I couldn’t bear to get rid of.

I cut it into 1″ strips, pinned one end down to a styrofoam ball, and just started wrapping. And then for a hanger I tied a great big black ribbon, and used a glue covered pin to hold that in place.

See? How much easier could it get?

Mummy Ball

Atti’s Halloween costume

I was racking my brain trying to come up with an outfit for my little guy this year. He’s not obsessively into anything that would make planning a costume easy. I was in the middle of a phone call with my friend Sara, complaining about this very problem, when the perfect idea hit.

I’ve made no secret that we are ridiculous saps around here. I call Bear, Bear, friends and family have always called me Tree (even though it’s spelled funny, my name is actually pronounced TREE-sa, so that’s an easy one) and when we talked about a kid that was a little bit him, a little bit me, it was easy to see that it would have to be a Koala Bear – a little bear who lives in a tree. I know, I know. We’re disgusting.

Koala Bear Costume

It was a really easy costume to make, so let me walk you through it.

Koala Bear costume Step 1

Fold a piece of fun fur in half and cut it to the size of your kid. The fold makes up the shoulders, so I just laid Atti right on top and cut the other three sides. Then I cut out a notch for the neck, and cut the front of the vest up the middle.

Koala Bear costume Step 2

Refold the vest to lay right sides together, and sew up the sides, leaving a few inches open at the top to make arm holes.

Koala Bear costume Step 3

Cut another piece of fun fur for the hood. Long enough to touch shoulder to shoulder, and deep enough to cover the back of your child’s head.

Koala Bear costume Step 4

Fold to make right sides together, and sew the back closed. If you give the top a little big of a curve, it won’t look like a conehead.

Then just sew the hood to the neck of your vest. Line up the middle of the hood with the middle of the back of the vest, right sides together, pin in place, and sew it down. For Atti to cooperate with wearing it, I couldn’t let it choke him, so I just sewed the hood to the back and sides of the vest, and then cut any remaining hood off at an angle so it blended in. Fun fur is extremely forgiving, and once you hem it, it will look like everything you did was intentional.

Koala Bear costume Step 5
In this picture you can see just how imprecise I was. That’s the best part about Halloween costumes. It’s not like you’re going to be entering it into the fair or anything.

For the ears you’ll need to cut four little half circles. Sew the pairs together on the curve, leaving that flat part open.

Koala Bear costume Step 6
Cut a couple pieces of wire big enough to match the curve of the ears and stuff them inside. This will help the ears to stand up better instead of just flapping next to the head. Once the wire is inside, just sew those ears right down to the outside of the hood. I arranged them so that the round part was facing the front of the hood when I sewed them down. I think this way works best to get them up and out.

Koala Bear costume Step 7

The cutest part of a little fuzzy thing is the paws, so since I had plenty of fabric leftover, I thought I’d make a little pair of moccasins to go with the hoodie. I totally just scrapped this together, but hey, it worked. I cut four pieces of fur about 3/4″ bigger than an outline of Atti’s foot, and then I sewed the pairs together, right sides together, all the way around.

Koala Bear costume Step 8

With these little tribble looking guys, I cut a hole about the size of a quarter right where the foot slips into a shoe, then I turned them right side out. Cut a straight slit down from the hole to make enough room for the foot.

Koala Bear Halloween
When I laid Atti down on the fabric to start cutting out the pieces, he would not hold still long enough for me to do the job. He kept rolling over on his belly and rubbing his hands through the fur yelling, “Kitty! Kitty!” I think in his world, everything fuzzy must be a cat.

You can probably guess by the apples in my hair that I am supposed to be a tree he’s clinging to, and then Bear’s going to wear a big ugly Hawaiian shirt and carry the camera and call himself a tourist. We figure that we don’t have to put a ton of work into making us look cute when I’ll be carting this little sugar snack all over town.

Edgar Allen Poe Signs

Poe Sign Version 2

It’s safe to say that I’m not exactly the world’s foremost expert on the Victorian. Or Gothic. I don’t really even know how those two things are different. Or not. I just had this vision in my head of a Halloween full of crows and Disneyland’s Haunted Mansion. Miss Havisham and Edgar Allen Poe. But for all I know I’ve been committing all kinds of historical and design atrocities as I’ve followed this vague notion of an idea.

Poe Sign Version 1

Despite my lack of concrete knowledge, I knew that Poe’s creepy writings had to end up on here somewhere. I searched around the internet to find a few excerpts that were sufficiently spooky, and then set about making an ornament to display them.

Poe Sign Tutorial Step 1
I found these signs at Michael’s in the aisle with all the naked wood. It came with a thick rope hanger like something you’d see hanging on a pirate ship. I pulled off the rope and painted it a creamy ivory color, and then rubbed a black ink pad around the edges.

Poe Sign Tutorial Step 2
I formatted the quotes on my computer, and then searched around online to find out how to make my own rubons. It was really easy. I took a transparency meant for a laser printer, and then ran it through my inkjet printer. The ink from my printer beads up on the transparency, so you can transfer it without it drying. The most important thing is to make sure that you set your printer to print in mirror image, so that the text won’t be backwards when you transfer it. You can also spray your transparency with a spray hair gel to make it even easier to transfer. I had mixed results with this, so I’m not certain it’s necessary, but it sure didn’t hurt anything.

Poe Sign Tutorial Step 3
Then I just stapled a new ribbon on the top to use as a hanger.

Poe Sign Version 3
Doing a whole bunch of these took me about a day, but they completely set the whole tone for this tree I’ve been trying to get out of my head and into reality.