Christmas Sweets Crosstitch

Christmas Sweets Crosstitch

Crosstitch was my first love, so I don’t need much of an excuse to pull it out, but it’s also such a nice way of bringing in a different medium, a little different look, a little contrast to the tree while still in keeping with the theme.

I used 28 ct linen and stitched the design using one strand of floss over one thread of the linen (instead of the standard two threads) so that the design would be small enough to fit into these cheap little frames. If you stitched it over two threads, it would be large enough to frame in a 5 x 7 frame.

If you’re new to crosstitching, here’s some great tutorials:
Animated Sampler Stitch (select Surface Stitches – Cross Stitch Danish)
Celtic Cross Stitch
Instructions from DMC

Gluing on the ribbon
Once I had my piece all stitched up, I wrapped it around a thin piece of cardboard and placed it in the frame, and then glued a ribbon around the frame, leaving it loose at the top to act as the hanger.

Christmas Sweets Crosstitch

To download the pattern, click on the picture to go to flickr, then click on “actions,” then “all sizes” above the photo. Download the original size, which I formatted ready to print. Hopefully flickr will think so too.

Clay Popcorn and Cranberry Garland

Clay Popcorn Garland

The first step in decorating a Christmas tree is adding the garland. Well, the first step on a pre-lit tree anyway. And for a tree focused on the traditional treats of Christmas, a popcorn and cranberry garland seemed a natural fit.

But have you ever tried to make one of those? It’s a total pain in the butt. Neither the popcorn or cranberries seem to want to be strung. The cranberries are as hard as pebbles as you force the needle through, and the popcorn crumbles as you try and make a hole. Then the whole thing grows stale so that by the end of the season you’re eager to get rid of it and have to start the process from scratch next year. As much as I love the iconic look of the popcorn garland, I was not eager to dedicate time every year fighting to get that made. A permanent option was required, so I pulled out the polymer clay.

This is a great project for polymer clay newbies. It’s just rolling ball shapes, you don’t need any tools or sculpting talent, but you can achieve the traditional popcorn garland once and for all and never have to make it again.

Popcorn Step 1
White polymer clay will pick up every speck of dirt, so wash your hands before you start and work on a clean surface. I like to work on parchment paper because it’s non-stick, makes cleanup easy, and I can use the same piece to take the work straight into the oven.

Popcorn Step 2
Cut the brick into quarters along those marked lines, then cut those columns into thirds.

Popcorn Step 3
Cut those thirds into thirds again, and then set one of those small pieces aside. Each piece of popcorn will use two of those third pieces, which by this point in our cutting works out to be 2/36ths of the entire brick. If I did my math right.

Cut one of those small third pieces into fourths.

Popcorn Step 4
Roll each of your pieces up into a rough ball shape. The best thing about sculpting a piece of popcorn is that you’re aiming for chaos. So precision actually works against you in this project. Wonky shapes and ovals only make things look more realistic.

Popcorn Step 5
Press each of the small balls into the bottom of the larger ball and arrange them as desired to get the most “popcorny” look.

Popcorn Step 6
Take a tiny ball of yellow clay and press it into the bottom of the popcorn piece.

Popcorn Step 7
Push a skewer through the middle of the popcorn to make a hole for stringing. Don’t be afraid to make this nice and big, you’ll thank yourself during the stringing process.

Cranberries Step 1
When you’re all done with the white clay, then break out the cranberry colored clay. Red clays leave marks on everything, so don’t even think about working on this before your popcorn pieces.

Cut the brick into four pieces along the marked lines, then fourths. I liked a little variation in the size of my cranberries, so I cut some pieces into fifths instead of fourths, but it really doesn’t have to be precise.

Cranberries Step 2
Roll your pieces up and run them through with the skewer. Bake all your pieces according to the instructions on the packaging, keeping the cranberries and the popcorn pieces on separate cookie sheets so the colors don’t transfer. When they’re cool, thread them onto a piece of yarn.

Clay Popcorn Garland
So I admit that this isn’t the speediest project I’ve ever designed, but what you put out in labor one year you’ll be grateful for every other year as you get that wonderful homey look without any additional effort.

Manly lampshades

Decorated lampshades
I had planned on putting a lot of energy into decorating our bedroom this year, but the move completely upended those plans. Not only because of how it occupied my time and energy, but also for how it sucked up our money. I can’t build the bedframe I plan on until I get the right size mattress, which of course costs a whole lot more money than what I have lying around. So since I couldn’t do the full bedroom makeover from start to finish, I’ve had to content myself with one step at a time – painting the walls the right color (unlike the last house), a lucky Craigslist find, reorganizing the trinkets in the house to bring some in here, buying one piece of artwork at a time, and making over some cheap lamps.

I really love a masculine design, so I wanted our bedroom to have a lot of that influence. Dark colors, minimal decor, and traditionally masculine fabrics, like suiting.

Making bias tape
Finding the fabric was the hard part. Once I found a suiting material that showed up against the black wall, then I just had to make a bias tape. I cut the fabric to the dimensions called for by my bias tape maker – 1″ of fabric to make 1/2″ bias tape, and sewed the edges together to make one long piece. Then I fed it through the bias tape maker and ironed it.

Lampshade decor closeup

I ripped off the fabric that edged the lampshade, and then hotglued my bias tape in it’s place, folding the edges over where they met to keep things neat.

New lamp
It’s such a simple change that I debated even blogging about it, but I think it adds a whole lot to the look. What used to be a bargain basement lamp from a big box store is now custom and a perfect fit for my masculine inspired bedroom.

Paperclay ghosts

Paperclay ghosts

In my last house, this buffet was upstairs and only got a few little decorations. In this house it’s front and center so I needed to do better. Once I rearranged the decorations I had to fit the new place, I realized that I was seriously lacking something for this spot that brought in a little height. So I had myself a little brainstorm, and came up with this little ghost family.

Ghost supplies
I got three foam cones measuring 15″, 9″, and 6″, and a bunch of paperclay. I only ended up using two bricks for all three ghosts.

Paperclay ghost, Step 1
Start by covering each cone with a thin layer of the paperclay, spreading it into the pockets in the foam to get good adherence. When that layer is dry, add another one as necessary to cover the foam texture.

Paperclay ghost, Step 2
You don’t have to be a sculptor to make the head. I just took a ball of paperclay that looked proportional to the size of the cone I was working with, and squeezed it in my hand. The ridges of your fingers make a naturally cool ghost head shape. Just smooth things out a little, make the top of the head a little pointier, and you’ll have just the right look.

Paperclay ghost, Step 3
Place your ghost head on top of the cone, and stick it down with more paperclay, smoothing things out as you go. You can also add a little more paperclay around the neck to avoid such a rigid cone shape, or add a whole lot more paperclay if you want to give your ghost some curves.

Paperclay ghost, Step 4
I pressed my fingertips into the clay to make spots for the eyes, and this had the added effect of pushing some clay up to make cheekbones. Let them dry at least overnight.

Paperclay ghost, Step 5
One of the best features of paperclay is that you can sand it when it’s dry. So give your ghosts a good thorough sanding to smooth out the texture and to make the head a little less lumpy.

Paperclay ghost, Step 6
You can paint your whole ghost if you want to, but I loved the color of the clay so I just left it alone. I painted on a simple happy face with acrylic paint, but I used chalk to make the cheeks. I remember my mom using her makeup on craft projects as a kid, so I bet you could use actual blush to get the same effect.

Paperclay ghost, Step 7
Cut a piece of cheesecloth big enough to cover the ghost. Pick up the very top and snip out the very center. A small cut is all you need.

Paperclay ghost, Step 8
Pull the cheesecloth over the head and glue it around the neck with whatever white glue is handy.

Paperclay ghost, Step 9
Tie a little black ribbon around the neck, and your little ghost family is complete.

Paperclay ghosts on buffet
I love Halloween, but it’s hard to decorate for with small children. Things are so gorey and scary, or else they’re so completely juvenile I’d make my house look like a preschool. I think these manage to be cute and stylish at the same time. And they add great height.

Halloween Banner

Halloween Banner

This new place has this big cut out in the main downstairs wall, and I never know quite what to do with it. Most of the year I’ve just been leaving it empty because nothing I have seems to work in that spot and I really don’t want to buy a bunch of knick knacks for a temporary residence. But now that we’re in holiday season? I thought I could just use it like a mantle. Which means I could make a banner for halloween.

I was inspired by all the beautiful Victorian inspired decorations that pop up in the stores and on blogs. Normally that’s not my flavor of antique, but it just goes so well with Halloween that I can expand my horizons. Plus, it was a chance to play with glitter, which I am always up for.

You’ll need a whole bunch of thin cardboard for this project. I get all mine at scrapbook stores – as I’ve mentioned before, a lot of it is used in shipping paper, so many stores will give it to you for free – but you can also use cut up cereal boxes or leftover shipping material. Anything thick enough to hold up to paint.

Halloween Banner Step 1
Cut your cardboard into a diamond shape. The easiest way to do this is with a quilting ruler and mat. I cut the cardboard piece into a rectangle measuring the height I wanted (12″ in my case) by the width I wanted (8″ in my case). Then I marked the middle of all the sides, and, using my ruler, cut a diagonal from the middle of one side to the middle of another. I did this for each side and what was left was the diamond shape I wanted.

Halloween Banner Step 2
Paint all your large diamonds in a creamy color with acrylic paint. You may need to use a couple of coats to get good coverage.

Halloween Banner Step 3
Cut more diamonds for the inner pieces, and paint them black. I made these diamonds measure 6″ wide by 8″ high.

Halloween Banner Step 4
To glitter the edges, you could just brush some glue on and sprinkle glitter on top. But I wanted to experiment with a masking technique, so I cut some masking tape with a pair of decorative scissors, and used that to control where I put the glue. This was time consuming, but as precise as you can get with glitter.

Halloween Banner Step 5
I brushed glitter on the exposed edges, and covered it with a gold glitter. My personal favorite is the Martha Stewart glitter. I don’t know how we got by without it for so long.

Halloween Banner Step 6
Since the masking tape technique was a bit of a pain, I wanted to try a different option for glittering the large diamonds. I took a transparency I had lying around, but you could use any thin plastic, and cut that with a pair of decorative scissors. I held that in place as I brushed the glue on the edges, and then I sprinkled orange glitter on top.

Halloween Banner Step 7
This technique was way easier, but it was also sloppier. My pattern didn’t come out precise, but it was close enough that it was worth it to me.

Spread a white glue on the back of the black diamond, and glue it to the center of the cream diamond. If your cardboard starts to curl, flatten it under something heavy for a bit.

Halloween Banner Step 8
Next you need to make the rosette. I got a roll of crepe paper streamers and cut it to 14″ long, and then accordion folded it about every 1/4″. I did not worry about precision for a single minute, so don’t even think about grabbing a ruler. Just aim for smallish consistent folds and you’ll be just fine.

Halloween Banner Step 9
Spread a SMALL amount of white glue on one end of the streamer and bend it around to meet the other side. Spread another SMALL amount of white glue in the center and push it together. I emphasize small amount of glue because water is crepe paper’s kryptonite, so if you use too much then all your folds will dissolve into a crumpled pile. You don’t need much to do the job anyway.

Halloween Banner Step 10
Glue the rosette to the center of the black diamond with hot glue. Hot glue works better with crepe paper because you don’t have to worry about it losing it’s shape, but if you tried to use it before, you stood a good chance of walking away with a few blisters.

Halloween Banner Step 11
The last step is to prepare your letters. I cut mine out of more chipboard using a font I printed off my computer. I use this technique so often I must have shared it over and over again, but just in case – I print the letters off in the size I want, on normal copy paper. Then I stick the copy paper to the chipboard and cut them both out at the same time.

Paint them green, cover with glue and then green glitter, and when dry, glue on top of the rosette with hot glue.

Halloween Banner, close
While my hot glue gun was handy, I hot glued the tops of each diamond onto a black ribbon. Since I was making this banner for a specific spot, I actually hung the ribbons in place and then glued the diamonds on so I could get everything positioned just right. The diamonds can be fairly heavy, so I had to readjust the ribbons afterward, but it was a really handy way to get everything spaced evenly.

I had a big space to fill, so I went big, but you could make this way smaller by just changing the dimensions of the diamonds. Or you could choose a different saying to make it shorter. I think this could also be really fun to hang on a staircase as a Halloween answer to a traditional garland.

Fabric covered bangles

My love for big fat bracelets is thoroughly documented. So when I found these wooden bracelet forms at my local craft store, I had to have them. The possibilities just made my mind race. I am such a crafty nerd.

Fabric covered bangles Step 1

Really, you could do anything with these, including just paint them and lacquer them, but I thought this would be a great opportunity to use up a bunch of fabric scraps.

I made two different kinds of bracelets, but for both of them I used an art sealer. You could use mod podge or other decoupage medium, but that tends to dry fairly soft, and is water soluble. This sealer dries much harder, and I won’t have to panic if I wash my hands a little exuberantly.

Fabric covered bangles Step 2

For the wider bracelets, I cut a scrap piece of fabric wide enough to cover the outside and inside of the bracelet, and long enough to wrap around the outside. I applied a generous coat of the sealer to the bracelet, and stuck the fabric on top, and then applied even more sealer on top.

To cover the inside, snip the sides of the fabric right up to where it meets the bracelet. Cover the bracelet with sealer, fold the fabric pieces in, and cover with more sealer, if you snip far enough and overlap the pieces, you can reduce any puckers or folds on the top of the bracelet. When you finish securing the fabric, cover the whole bracelet with another coat of sealer.

Fabric covered bangles Step 3

That method would not work for the thinner bracelets. There would just be WAY too much puckering and not enough of a flat part to straighten everything out. So for that, I ripped a piece of fabric about 3/4″ wide and wrapped it around, covering everything with the sealer as I went.

Ripping works really well for this because it’s such a simple way of getting a consistently sized strip. Also, the little bit of fringe only adds to the look. If you make your strip any wider than 3/4″, you’ll probably run into those same puckering problems, so it’s better to err on the thin side.

Fabric covered bangles Step 4

This is such a simple, cheap project it works great for gifts or for a craft time with older kids. I’ve already had the teenagers from church over and we had a great time making them, and everyone was successful. It might just be the first craft class I’ve ever taught where everyone finished the project and was happy with their results.

Fabric covered bangles

Camera Strap Cover

Camera Strap Sleeve 2
You know, it’s really hard to take a picture of your camera when you only have one camera.

For years I’ve been seeing all those cute decorative camera straps floating around the internet, and I had it in the back of my head that I needed to make one some time. I’ve seen some that took apart an existing strap and replaced it with fabric, but I couldn’t bring myself to go that far. I give my camera such a beating, I wanted the security of a big nylon strap and some industrial sewing.

So I decided to make a slipcover.

I tend to hoard scraps of home dec weight fabric, so I pulled out some of my favorites in complementary colors, and sewed enough scraps together to make two pieces:

A back piece measuring 5″ wide x 27″ long
and a front piece measuring 4 1/2″ wide x 27″ long.

Sew each piece into a long tube by matching the long sides, right side together, and sewing with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Camera Strap Sleeve Step 1

Turn right side out, and iron the tubes flat with the seam running down the middle of one side.
Fold the raw edges inside the tube, iron down, and sew straight across the end.
Camera Strap Sleeve Step 2

Lay your tubes on top of each other, centering the seams against each other, and pin in place. Sew as close as you can steer to the edge of the top piece, down both sides. You may want to reinforce this part, because this is wear the most stress will occur.
Camera Strap Sleeve Step 3

Then you just unbuckle your strap from the camera, thread it through the space between the two tubes, and rebuckle the strap.
Camera Strap Sleeve

I think that camera straps are relatively universal in size, but it wouldn’t hurt to take a few measurements with what you’ll be using before relying on my measurements.

I made this pretty much just because it was pretty, but I discovered an added benefit. The home dec cotton I used is really comfortable, and the slip cover cushions my neck from those hard nylon edges. Now I may actually leave it hanging from my neck instead of slung over my shoulder like a purse, banging into everything I pass. I think my camera will be grateful.

Papercut Thank You Card

Thank You Card

My dearest cousin Karen did me such a kindness a while back, that just sending an email was not enough. So I wanted to make a card as stylish and elegant as she is.

I had an idea a while back for a papercut card backed with vellum, and this seemed like the perfect time to make it a reality.

Thank You Card tutorial Step 1

I started by formatting the image I wanted to cut out in a Word document. I drew a text box the size I wanted the window to be, and then I put another text box on top with my words inside. Make sure the second text box has no outline and no fill selected so you can see the one behind it. Then position the second text box so the letters line up on the bottom, joining them to the paper that will be left behind when you cut it all out.

Thank You Card tutorial Step 2

Cut your cardstock to size – mine measured 11″ wide by 4 1/4″ tall, and then I scored it so that when the card was folded it fit inside the 5 1/2″ envelopes I have.

Position your printout where you want to make your cuts, and tape everything down sturdily.

Thank You Card tutorial Step 3

Cut the window out with a sharp exacto knife, being careful you don’t cut through the letters. Those have to stay behind.

Thank You Card tutorial Step 4
Glue a piece of vellum behind the cutout. I had this piece of vellum with silver embossed starts on it I really liked, but I think it would be fun to make a stained glass effect with different colors of vellum.

I typically don’t like making handmade cards. They’re often just as much work as a full scrapbook page and it’s something that is so transitory. This one was simple enough that I won’t feel bad when the inevitable happens and Karen throws it away, but it’s special enough that I think it will tell Karen I think she’s special too.

Versatility

At one of those everything on super clearance sales, I bought this blousey navy dress that was missing the belt that went with it. This dress was literally 4$ and will be one of those things that can be worn all through a pregnancy and beyond (should that day ever come back around) so I snapped it up and ran.

I needed something nice to wear to that conference, and I needed to give this dress a belt, so I went a little overboard with the options.

The first thing I sewed was just a satin ribbon belt. I had a big long length of satin, so I cut it long enough to fit around my waist with plenty left over for a tie, sewed it into a tube, turned it inside out and sewed the ends closed. Really simple, and it made this simple jersey dress kind of fancy.

But I had so much more fabric, I had to keep going.

pink belt in action

This belt is made from some of the home decor weight Amy Butler fabric. I cut it to fit my waist, and then twice as wide as I wanted the finished belt, and ironed on some stiff interfacing. Then I sewed the right sides together to form a tube, turned it right side out, folded the raw edges in on each edge and sewed all the way around as close to the edge as I could get. This is the method I followed for every belt.

Pink belt closeup
Then I added some big silver snaps as closures.

paisley belt in action
I’ve had this fabric in my stash for ages and ages and the colors just worked perfectly. It’s more home dec weight fabric, and by now I can’t even remember what I had in mind when I bought it.

Paisley belt closeup
I whipped up some covered buttons and positioned the button holes so it would fit me snugly, but not tightly.

With the success and ease of those belts, I decided to be a little more adventurous and try to replicate another belt I owned.

Gray belt in action
This picture cracks me up. I was trying to smooth out my skirt before the timer went off and I ended up looking all super posey. Maybe that’s the secret to my whole modeling dilemma. I need to take pictures by accident.

Anyway, I’ve had this awesome faux snakeskin fabric for years and years and I’ve been rationing it for only the perfect project. I bought this other belt where one end kind of folds under the other end, so I bought a unique closure and tried to replicate it.

I started by making the belt part just like every other kind. Cut, interface, make a tube, sew around the edges. Then I cut two more pieces of fabric and sewed them into tubes thin enough to fit through the closures. My fabric pieces measured about 6 1/2″ x 2 1/2″.

Gray belt detail

Thread one end through the closure and sew securely. Sew the other end securely to the belt. Repeat for the other side.

Gray belt closeup
I got the placement of the closure right just by trying it on and then pinning it in place. Then when you put it on, you overlap the ends of the belt on top of each other, and then bring the closure tabs together. The construction couldn’t be simpler, even though the description isn’t.

I don’t know why I haven’t seen more homemade belt tutorials. They’re so easy they’re addictive. I’m going to wear this dress down to the threads before I put a dent in my new belt rotation.

Headscarf

Headscarf
In the early 80’s my mom used to wear a headscarf all the time. I guess it was just a trend, maybe one she hung on to a little longer than advisable, but it was one of those things that imprinted on me as a classy grown up thing to do.

Now, I’m just grateful that I can occasionally go one more day between showers without looking like a total greaseball. That extra half hour is precious some days.

Headscarf Step 1

You’ll need two pieces of fabric. Cut one piece for the ties to measure 3″ x 34″. For the scarf part, cut a piece of fabric to 15″ x 15″ and then cut it diagonally across the middle. Hem both short edges of the scarf fabric.

Headscarf Step 2
Pin the center of the scarf fabric to the center of the tie fabric, right sides together, and sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Iron the seam towards the tie fabric, then continue to iron 1/4″ of the tie fabric towards the wrong side.

Headscarf Step 3
Iron a 1/4″ of the other side of the tie fabric towards the wrong side.

Headscarf Step 4
Fold the tie fabric in half by matching the 1/4″ edges you ironed. Sew as close to the edge as you can steer. Sew across the bottom of the ties as well to completely close them.

This is a project you can crank out so fast, and one that uses so little yardage, it’s tempting to make one in every color. I may never need to wash my hair again.