Vinyl Splashmat

Vinyl Splashmat
3 years into Atti’s little life, and I’m just now addressing the mess he makes at food time. A mess so great that we can never dream of eating together at our dining table, lest we want our carpet to be covered in a dense matting of crushed cheerios and cast off pieces of fruit. Which means that Atti usually eats in the middle of the kitchen, marooned on an island surrounded by linoleum.

I’d seen these vinyl splashmats in fancy kid catalogs, but rolled my eyes at them. I do that with a lot of stuff people try to sell moms – stuff that maybe could solve a problem that’s not really a problem, or will only be a problem for a few months until the kid grows into a new skill. But, my kid has reason to take his time at developing those skills, so it was time to put my eyes back in my head and recognize that this might actually have a point.

Vinyl Splashmat Tutorial Step 1
I bought 2 1/2 yards of the main colored vinyl, and 1/2 a yard of a contrasting vinyl for the binding. I knew I wanted it to be roughly square, so I folded the main vinyl in half and then cut it to the size that would work for my high chair.

Vinyl Splashmat Tutorial Step 2
The vinyl can be a little tricky to work with, so with the wrong sides of the font and back together, I zig zagged the edges. This keeps things in place as you’re trying to attach the binding.

Vinyl Splashmat Tutorial Step 3
I cut the contrasting vinyl into 3″ wide strips, and sewed it on just like quilt binding. Here’s a great tutorial for that. Once you have the binding sewed on to the front, bend it over to the back and pin in place. I used bobby pins to hold it down so that I didn’t make holes in the vinyl. If you pin it so that the binding covers the seam line on the back, then you can sew the binding shut on the machine by carefully sewing on the seam again. Sometimes, just to make sure I catch that back, I’ll sew a line on just the very edge of the binding on the front. This secures the binding on the back, but also adds a little look of topstitching on the front.

If your child will master eating within a short enough time frame to make all this work excessive, you could skip the binding and stop with a zig zagged edge. Actually, you could just lay down one piece of vinyl and not even worry about the back or the edge. But since this will most likely be a part of our lives for the next few years, I wanted to make it as nice as possible. Before it gets covered in so many crushed cheerios and cast off fruit that it becomes unrecognizable.

2011 Christmas Cards

2011 Christmas Cards
I finally, finally, in the longest time I’ve ever taken, got my traditional Christmas cards finished. And I’m afraid to say it just might be the last year I do this. My Christmas card list has gotten too big, and online printing options have gotten too good. I’m not sure I can justify the weeks of work to myself anymore.

But anyhoo, here in March I’ve finally finished my work from January.

I got this gorgeous flocked paper from SEI, the two stamps came from Inkadinkado and the ribbon was left over from another project.

2011 Christmas Cards Step 1
Start by making all your different elements.

Cut a piece of 12 x 12 cardstock down the middle so you have a piece measuring 6″ x 12″. Use a scoring blade or bone folder to score one side 4″ from the end, and the other side 3 1/2″ from the end.

Out of a coordinating color of cardstock, cut a frame large enough for your image. I traced a chipboard frame I bought at a scrapbook store, but you can also find good stuff online.

Cut a white piece of cardstock large enough to fit behind the frame and stamp your image. I colored mine with markers so I could get the two different colors.

For the tab, get another piece of coordinating cardstock and cut it to 3″ x 2 1/2″. Score it down the middle, and stamp your greeting on one side.

2011 Christmas Cards Step 2
Fold your tab piece down the middle, and staple it to the front flap of the card.

2011 Christmas Cards Step 3
Cut a piece of ribbon 5″ long, and cut the end to make a pretty swallow tail. Glue it with liquid glue, lined up with one edge and down the center of the card.

2011 Christmas Cards Step 4
While that’s drying, I added a little sparkle to my main image with some glitter glue. I also used an iridescent glitter glue to embellish the frame.

2011 Christmas Cards Step 5
When all the pieces are embellished and dry, adhere them to the front of the card. After a little experimentation, I used a white liquid glue. I normally wouldn’t do that because you do risk the paper warping, but between the flock on the paper and the ribbon, tape was just not getting the job done. I just did my best to work really neat, and then stacked them up and put a heavy book on top as they dried.

I don’t know, I’m probably just grumpy because my lack of crafting mojo made this project a little less joyful than usual. I love sending out a little piece of handmade love so much, I’m not sure I can ever really give it up.

Refnished table #1

Table in need of help
This is one of the two tables I’ve been wanting to refinish that are currently listed over there in the sidebar. I got this little guy off of Craigslist when we first bought our San Diego house and it has been patiently waiting for some attention ever since. Since it’s life began probably at least 50 years ago it’s been covered in some unforgiving paint and it has been scarred up almost beyond recognition. The last person who tried to resuscitate it took off the custom drawer pull and replaced it with these odd little plastic pieces that made the table look like it was constantly in shock. It needed a refresher.

Table refinishing Step 1
I spent a few days trying to get all that black paint off. The wood underneath is still really good, but the poor table has been abused beyond my ability to repair. After a few tries with the stripping gel it became clear that it was either sand the table down until there was just a whisper of veneer left, or commit to repainting.

I spray painted this table with the same primer I used for the bathroom stand.

Table refinishing Step 2
I went back for more trusty spray paint. I just love how the surface finishes. Instead of that overpowering black that was on the table before, I went with a dark gray with metallic flecks in it. I wouldn’t call it glittery, but it does have just a bit of shimmer. It really changes the look of this utilitarian dresser into something a little bit special.

For greater longevity, I finished it off with a couple of coats of a clear sealer.

Table refinishing Step 3
Unfortunately, the holes in the drawer were not drilled at a standard length apart, so I was limited in my hardware options. I did not want to go for something round again, I was trying to get away from the face effect of having two dots above that big open mouth. Home Depot had these little glass knobs, and I think that the hexagon shape is as good as I’m going to get.

Refinished table
In the action photos I’m afraid that the table doesn’t look that much different. Especially nestled up to my poor destroyed arm chair. But living with it I can tell you how much neater and fresher the whole thing looks. It was absolutely worth the effort.

Bathroom Stand

Bathroom stand
This project has been living in my head ever since we bought our San Diego house. Actually seeing it to fruition has been like getting that superhuman energy boost after you kick a bad cold.

A few years ago my cousin and favorite shopping buddy Karen and I were strolling through a fancy home decor store when I came upon a really simple side table decorated in nailheads. It was gorgeous and inspiring and totally incredibly ridiculously priced. I’ve been looking for a way to do it myself ever since, but it turns out it is really really hard to find a perfect little table.

Powder rooms never have enough space for all of the little luxuries I wanted to put out, so I wanted to put a tiny little table next to the sink. But have you ever priced those cute little tables? They cost nearly as much as a regular sized table. And my cheapskate streak just couldn’t live with that. Logically I understand that things cost what they cost and that expenses don’t get dramatically cheaper just because the table is slightly smaller in scale, but no amount of logic could get past my sticker shock.

I found this little table at HomeGoods for $20. It was the wrong color, the wrong decor, not quite the shape I had in mind, but that price was so very right.

Bathroom Stand tutorial Step 1
This little table started life out painted a distressed white with black underneath and a decoupaged image of a map on the top. Boring. I stripped the paint off, gave it a little sanding, and spray painted it with a primer. For a job this small, spray paint is amazing. No brush strokes, easy application and clean up, and these days you can get a pretty interesting selection of colors.

Bathroom Stand tutorial Step 2
I followed the primer with a few coats of spray paint in this cool peacock blue color, and then a couple more coats with a clear sealer. This was a perfect scale of furniture refinishing for me right now. I didn’t even really need to change my clothes, I could slap on a coat of spray paint in between putting on Sesame Street and changing over the laundry.

Bathroom Stand tutorial Step 3
I gave the paint coat a couple of days to get a good hard cure, and then I started adding the nailheads. Make sure you use some kind of a softer hammer so you don’t mess up the finish of the nails. A rubber mallet or a sock tied around the hammer would be good. Also, they love to bend at the head, so take your time and hammer straight down.

If cost was no object to this project, I would have preferred a table that offered me enough solid space on the sides to do an ornate paisley pattern, but this way I got to get my suggestion of nailheads while also having the whole project cost less than a dinner out.

Pucker Pillow

Pucker pillow 2

I finally got around to adding the last set of new pillows on my living room couch, and since I was having such trouble coming up with what color to do them in, I decided to make them a neutral metallic. I had some of this silk chiffon left over from another project, so I decided this would be a good opportunity to bring in a little bit of luxe.

Since I was going with a solid color fabric, I wanted to do something to make it interesting, and I loved the results of the pleated pillows so much, that I thought it could be fun to do another textured treatment. And this is what I came up with.

Pucker pillow Step 1

To start, I cut the fabric about five inches bigger than I wanted the finished pillow to be. This gave me plenty of space to work with. Then I measured where I wanted the puckers, which ended up being 5″ apart, and then each row was 3″ apart. I offset the pins in each row to make the little pattern.

To make the pucker, I just pinched the fabric together, and stuck a pin to hold it in place. I didn’t find measuring to matter much, I just tried to be consistent. If pressed for a measurement I’d guess that it was about a 1/2″ of fabric pinched together, but really I just grabbed enough to get a decent grip.

Pucker pillow Step 2

In each little spot with a pin, I sewed about an inch worth of zig zag stitch, and then went back over it with a straight stitch. The zig zag helps to keep all that extra fabric in place and adds to the stability and the appearance of the pucker, but it could pull out if left on it’s own. The straight stitch secures it so that you can’t see any threads straining through.

Pucker pillow Step 3

With all the puckers sewn in, I spread it out on my cutting mat and cut it to the size needed for my pillow. I used an 18″ pillow form, so I cut the fabric to 20″ x 20″. You need to allow for a lot of give in this pillow, otherwise those puckers will just press into place instead of looking drapey.

I backed this with another piece of fabric that would be taut against the pillow form, so that the pillow could still feel firm while allowing the pucker fabric to be loose. To do that I cut two slightly smaller pieces of fabric – I used a simple cotton – and arranged the pieces as follows: Back piece (which I stuck a zipper into), right side up, Pucker piece, right side down, Front piece, right side down. Then I sewed around them and finished as you would any other pillow.

Pucker pillow
Adding that backing piece was a little more work than I initially felt like doing, but it was so totally the right call. Now the pillow still has a shape, while that lovely silk can slide around creating pretty little folds and puckers and preserving the look of the texture.

Homemade Pirate Chest for your little landlubbers

Pirate Chest

My newly 4 year old nephew Kai is obsessed with pirates right now, and also has a December birthday. Having a December birthday myself, I know how often you get shuttled to the side with promises to make it up that never materialize. So when we go down to see family on Christmas day I wanted to have two presents for him. One for Christmas, and a special one for his special birthday.

But it also had to be cheap because Christmas is expensive.

Pirate Chest Step 1
This trunk started life as one of those cheap styrofoam coolers you can find at the grocery store or in a well stocked dollar store. We got some spray paint and painted it brown, but there’s a bit of a trick to it. Spray paints will melt styrofoam, so you need to do thin coats from far away and be patient with it. Unless there’s a section you actually want to melt, like the part of this cooler that had the manufacturer’s name on it. I gave that area a good hard blast with the spray paint and now it’s no longer legible.

Pirate Chest Step 2
The chest needed a hinge, but the cooler wasn’t made to accommodate one. I took three pieces of thick grosgrain ribbon and hot glued them in place to make a hinge that was flexible enough to account for the oddly shaped lid, then covered all my mess up with a fun fabric lining.

Pirate Chest Step 3
The clasps are what make this look like a pirate chest instead of a painted hunk of styrofoam. To attach them I took the screws included in the kit, covered the ends with hot glue, and shoved them through the clasp and into the styrofoam. The heat of the glue will melt the styrofoam enough as you go to act as a screwdriver at the same time.

Pirate Chest Step 4
Gold ribbon mimics the leather straps found on old luggage, and once again hides the evidence that this is a cheap piece of junk. Make sure you wrap the ends neatly so the lid can still come on and off easily.

Pirate Chest Step 5
I looked and looked for those metal corner pieces that come on old luggage but couldn’t find anything even close. So I just painted them on. You could keep going with this idea and paint on a lock or other metal embellishments.

Pirate Chest Booty
I have to give credit where it is due, this was totally Bear’s idea, nearly from beginning to end. We had the styrofoam cooler kicking around in the garage and he was the one who brought it to me and said, “With a little paint, this could look like a pirate chest!” He is living proof of what I always say – Creativity is a muscle. He just proved he’s a weightlifting champ.

Wire Candy Canes

Wire Candy Canes
In my brainstorming about candy canes, I of course came across the traditional idea of the pipe cleaner ornament. A staple of Christmas tree for years, I wanted to come up with something a little bit different, perhaps even a little less…fuzzy.

Wire Candy Cane, Step 1
So I wandered through the craft store and waited for creativity to hit me over the head. In the floral aisle I came across this raffia covered wire and thought it could be just the thing to evoke the simplicity and tradition of a pipe cleaner candy cane but done in a slightly more grown up version.

Wire Candy Cane, Step 2
I painted half of the wires white and half of them red. Make sure you get a really thorough coat because when you twist the wires together some of the raffia will unravel and reveal the underlying layers of brown.

Wire Candy Cane, Step 3
Twist a white and a red wire together. After a few trials and errors, I found the easiest way to do this to be to match up the middles and twist toward the ends.

Wire Candy Cane
The wires that I bought were long enough to make two candy canes, so I used wire cutters to cut them in half, and then bent one end to make the crook.

Wire Candy Cane
On my white tree they blend in enough to just give a pop of color in those few little bare spots. I think these are also easy enough, and cheap enough to be a really cute package decoration, or tied in the middle of a bow on a gift basket.

Iced Gingerbread Cookies

Iced Gingerbread Cookie

I spent way too much time over the last couple of months thinking about gingerbread. After the houses I naturally thought about making some gingerbread men, but I couldn’t crack a new or interesting way to make them since tutorials exist all over the internet, including this one which might just be untoppable.

I was also still deeply in love with that puffing fabric paint and looking for another excuse to use it. So here’s what I came up with.

Iced Gingerbread Cookie, Step 1

I drew up a pattern for an iced gingerbread cookie and cut the shape out of fun foam, which is fast becoming one of my favorite craft mediums. Make sure you punch a hole for the hanger to go through.

Iced Gingerbread Cookie, Step 2
Draw on your “icing” with the puffy paint. I’ll include my pattern of course, but you could go wild and do anything your heart desires. Or let the kids do what they desire. Just as you would during a cookie decorating marathon.

Iced Gingerbread Cookie, Step 3
Hit the paint with a heat gun. My happy little discovery in this process is that the fun foam melted a bit too. You have to be a little careful – you can end up burning your cookie – but it turned the color from an anemic tan to a beautiful toasted color, and took off some of the smoothness of the foam to look far more like an actual cookie.

Iced Gingerbread Cookie, Step 4
I did a line of icing around the outside too, just to hide those square edges that make it look too fake.

Iced Gingerbread Cookie Pattern
This project ended up being really cheap – I’d guess each ornament ended up costing about 12 cents – so it could be a great thing to put your kids in front of while you’re frantically making Christmas preparations. Christmas multitasking at its finest.

One more ornament tomorrow and then it’s time for reveals!!

Glittered Candy

Glittered Candy
This is really a reprisal of an ornament that I originally made for last year’s whimsical halloween tree. It’s so simple, but effective, and you should all know by know that I’m never going to miss a chance to glitter something.

Glittered Candy, Step 1
This time I used a variety of different sized styrofoam balls, and I started by painting them all in colors that would match the glitter I planned on using. This might seem like an unnecessary step at first blush, but it will make it so that you don’t need to do more than one coat of glitter. That was a lesson I learned the hard way.

Glittered Candy, Step 2
Cover the ball with a layer of white glue, then roll in glitter. Let dry.

Glittered Candy, Step 3
This time I used plain clear cellophane because I found it more effective in showing off the glitter inside. For the large balls I used a rectangle of cellophane measuring 10″ x 11″. For the smaller balls use a rectangle measuring 8″ x 9″. Wrap the rectangle around the glittered ball and twist the ends closed. Tie fishing line around one end, then tie the other end of fishing line around the other end and leave enough slack to create a hanger.

These look best nestled right up next to a light. The light not only reflects off the glitter, but also off of the cellophane. It’s a little sparkle bomb among all the rest of the paper and fabric ornaments.

Ribbon Candy

Ribbon Candy Ornament
This is such a classic ornament that everybody has a version of it. Martha and BHG both put beads in between each fold, I saw a paper version floating around somewhere this year, I think even the long lamented Carol Duvall show featured a version. Mine keeps it as basic as possible.

Ribbon Candy Ornament, Step 1
I think the big secret in this ornament is the ribbon you pick. It needs to be wired, but also look like the candy. I scored this ribbon on a huge drum from Costco this year. You basically just need a ribbon with some stripes running down the whole length.

Cut a 24″ length of ribbon and fold it every 2″, going back and forth like an accordion.

Ribbon Candy Ornament, Step 2
Cut a length of fishing line to 24″ long and thread it through a sharp needle. Thread a bead all the way to the bottom of the fishing line, then bring the needle around and back through the bead. Pull tight. This will be a stopper to hold the fishing line in place and keep it from pulling all the way through.

Ribbon Candy Ornament, Step 3
Poke the needle through the center of your ribbon stack and pull all the way through. You may have to wrestle with it a little, so that’s why it’s good to use a sharp needle that’s as small as you can use on the fishing line.

Ribbon Candy Ornament, Step 4
Fluff out your layers, shaping the folds around your finger to get that nice round ribbon edge.

Ribbon Candy Ornament, Step 5
When you’ve got your ribbon as fluffed out as you want it, tie a knot in the fishing line snuggled right up next to the ribbon. Cut the remaining fishing line in half to get the needle off, then tie another knot to create your hanger.

Ribbon Candy Ornament
It’s a popular one for a reason. Quick, cheap, and so evocative of an old fashioned Christmas.